Mexico's Public Markets: World of Colors, Aromas, Sounds, Tastes — and Community!

La Jornada: Ángeles González Gamio

Walking through a Mexican market is one of the richest cultural and sensual experiences you can have. Dating back to pre-Hispanic times, they persist even today, despite the onslaught of supermarkets. There is a marked difference in the quality and offering between public markets and the supermarkets.

Mercado San Juan Pugibet
Centro West

Supermarkets offer only one quality of pumpkin, onion, apples, peppers, tomatoes and other products of the earth. If they are ugly, you put up with it, since that's all there is. But the supers make up for it by offering 20 different types of deodorant and, if they are lucky, even some gringo brands, which are the same as the ones here but cost twice as much—and, yes!—the labels are in English.

Supermarkets never offer the rich variety of products found only in the markets. Besides fruits, vegetables and all kinds of food, there are piñatas, crafts, flowers, medicinal herbs, clothing and pretty much anything else that comes to mind. Eating in one of the fonditas [lunch counters] guarantees tasty, economical dishes with the freshest ingredients.

Markets have been an essential part of life in Mexico City, although the growth of markets hasn't kept pace with the capital's steady growth. In recent decades, they stopped building public markets even as a thousand facilities for large supermarket chains were constructed.

The disappearance of public markets has resulted not only in the loss of many job opportunities but of the warm, personal treatment provided by the sellers—not to mention the richness of having several options of the same produce! The markets are places of community, of socialization—where networks are woven of kinship and cronyism that create a strong communal solidarity.

"Fondita" 

Fresh chicken breasts

Now we are seeing emergence of a hope that the market decline might be reversed. A few days ago [August 2016], a declaration was signed naming as an intangible cultural heritage these traditional expressions that take place in Mexico City's public markets.

One important aspect is that the markets are recognized not only as supply centers, but as custodians of traditions. Suffice it to recall Christmas. Where would we buy everything needed for that celebration? Figurines for the Nativity scene, hay, moss, poinsettias, corn husks for tamales, brown sugar and fruit for the punch served at the posadas and, of course, the piñatas, to mention just a few of the many products not found in the supermarkets.

See: Mexican Traditions: Las Posadas

It was announced that in 2017 the budget will be tripled in order to rescue the 329 traditional and specialized public markets found in Mexico City's 16 boroughs. The public markets employ 280,000 people, who annually hold more than 1,300 romerías [open-air festivities celebrating a religious event]. This means that every day there are at least three anniversary festivities in the markets of Mexico's capital city.

The declaration regards these public spaces as living and dynamic entities, with an ancient tradition fostering the development of Mexican culture by being the supply channel for 46 percent of Mexico City households.

Eduardo Vázquez, Mexico City's Secretary of Culture, explained that the declaration basically grants to the public markets an active role in the development of the social fabric by integrating and reflecting the ethnic, social and cultural diversity that has built Mexico City.

They are going to dedicate 200 million pesos [11 million USD] for the preservation of public markets; however, given the [deteriorated] state of many markets, a much larger amount is surely going to be needed in the near future.

Take the Merced Market, which some time ago suffered a fire that affected part of the nave, which measures the impressive length of 400 meters [437 yards] with 3,205 puestos [sellers' stalls]. Then there is the smaller nave, which sells meat and poultry and has an annex for meals. Around the outside is the pavilion for popular toys and such typical items as clothing, flowers and candy ...

A world of colors, aromas, sounds and tastes that awaken all the senses. In his memoirs, Chilean poet Pablo Neruda declared:

"Mexico is in the markets."

Spanish original

Related articles:

• Tlatelolco: Twin City of Aztec Capital—located about a mile from Tenochtitlan, today the Historic Center of Mexico City—was the market center of the Aztec Empire;
• Saturday Market in Coyoacán.