We love Sosa Street. It's a narrow, one-way stone street said to be the oldest colonial street in Coyoacán, which places it in the sixteenth century.
Sosa Street is lined with colonial properties. All that's visible from the street are walls, but the house where Mexico's Nobel laureate Octavio Paz, poet and writer, died is on Sosa. Today it houses the Octavio Paz Foundation, which in addition to classes and cultural events gives the public access to the property.
Colonial properties are often quite grand. Behind the walls are not only large houses, but extensive gardens as well.
Half-way across Sosa is the little Plaza Santa Catarina in front of Santa Catarina Chapel, a simple sixteenth century structure originally built to hold open-air masses for Coyoacán's indigenous people.
Usually we go to the Culture Center in another colonial mansion on Plaza Santa Catarina with another extensive garden, but today we had a different destination in mind: Lupita's Restaurant.
The restaurant occupies the ground floor rooms of a corner colonial house, so the dining rooms have windows on two sides. The white-washed adobe walls and low beamed ceilings create a comfortable, very human space. The rooms are colorfully decorated with cut-paper works hanging on clotheslines strung just below the ceiling.
Lupita's menu is muy mexicano featuring family-style Mexican cuisine on a fixed price menu for 80 pesos [$6.61 USD]. We were served sopes (good) and an exceptional creamed poblano chile soup. For the main course, Reed had chicken enchiladas with mole that he pronounced delicious; I had tasty chicken tostadas—and we shared!
Dessert was just right—a tiny piece of quintessentially delicious carmelized panque (similar to pound cake). We topped it off with agua de jamaica (prepared like tea with dried hibiscus or roselle flowers)—refreshing and delicious!
But maybe the best part was the large family comida (dinner) at the table in front of us. There must have been twelve or fourteen people of all ages, including at least a couple of grandmothers.
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| Calle Francisco Sosa, Coyoacán |
Sosa Street is lined with colonial properties. All that's visible from the street are walls, but the house where Mexico's Nobel laureate Octavio Paz, poet and writer, died is on Sosa. Today it houses the Octavio Paz Foundation, which in addition to classes and cultural events gives the public access to the property.
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| Colonial House where Octavio Paz died |
Colonial properties are often quite grand. Behind the walls are not only large houses, but extensive gardens as well.
 |
| Formal entrance to Octavio Paz garden. The property extends to the right with more walkways, trees and open spaces |
Half-way across Sosa is the little Plaza Santa Catarina in front of Santa Catarina Chapel, a simple sixteenth century structure originally built to hold open-air masses for Coyoacán's indigenous people.
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| Santa Catarina Plaza in front of the Chapel |
Usually we go to the Culture Center in another colonial mansion on Plaza Santa Catarina with another extensive garden, but today we had a different destination in mind: Lupita's Restaurant.
 |
| Lupita's Restaurant (Photo: Internet) |
The restaurant occupies the ground floor rooms of a corner colonial house, so the dining rooms have windows on two sides. The white-washed adobe walls and low beamed ceilings create a comfortable, very human space. The rooms are colorfully decorated with cut-paper works hanging on clotheslines strung just below the ceiling.
Lupita's menu is muy mexicano featuring family-style Mexican cuisine on a fixed price menu for 80 pesos [$6.61 USD]. We were served sopes (good) and an exceptional creamed poblano chile soup. For the main course, Reed had chicken enchiladas with mole that he pronounced delicious; I had tasty chicken tostadas—and we shared!
Dessert was just right—a tiny piece of quintessentially delicious carmelized panque (similar to pound cake). We topped it off with agua de jamaica (prepared like tea with dried hibiscus or roselle flowers)—refreshing and delicious!
But maybe the best part was the large family comida (dinner) at the table in front of us. There must have been twelve or fourteen people of all ages, including at least a couple of grandmothers.
As we passed their table on the way in, Reed gallantly wished all the women Feliz Día de la Madre—which they loved! I saluted them with the traditional courtesy as you walk past diners, Buen provecho (bon apetite).
I believe I heard a "¡Qué padre!"—That's fantastic!
Their lilting chatter, interspersed with the quick, easy laughter of people who enjoy each other enlivened our own comida. On the way out, the host at the table, probably in his mid-40's, rose deferentially to greet Reed, then asked if he's the padre (priest) at the Capilla of Santa Catarina across the street.
Reed replied with a warm smile—being mistaken for a priest, now that's a first!
"No, but we live here in Coyoacán," he replied.Their pleasure at hearing Reed's reply was palpable. Instantly, we were enveloped in the welcoming warmth of their smiles...smiles that reflected their pleasure in our pleasure to be living here!
I believe I heard a "¡Qué padre!"—That's fantastic!
The older woman sitting at the corner of the table next to where I was standing got up and gave me an abrazo (embrace), wishing me a Feliz Día de la Madre...to which I replied,
"Thank you for your greeting from my grandchildren."At which point, she said something that preceded her kissing me on the cheek! I was deeply touched.
Nothing, absolutely nothing, beats the warmth and generosity of a Mexican welcome. There's nothing quite like it...anywhere!
Happy Mother's Day!
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