International Dance Day: Ballet Folklorico in Coyoacán

Sunday afternoon, Reed and I took a little vacation. The good news is that it's no more than a ten-minute taxi ride to the plazas at the Center of Coyoacán. Something interesting always seems to be happening there. It's a little like Sunday afternoon in Central Park, but somehow more 'animated'.

Last weekend was International Dance Day. Next to the Church, a large tent open on four sides had been erected. This tent was at least fifty yards long—yes, half a football field! At one end, a good-size stage had been set up.

Let me get this over with. Shamefully, we had not brought a camera. The day before, Reed had been at the plaza with his photography workshop. The light was difficult, so we didn't bring the cameras—not even my little one! The photos here are a combination of Reed's older pictures that show traditional dress and what I could find on the Internet.

We arrived just in time for the procession and ritual of a Mexica (Meh-SHE-kuh) or Aztec group. The men wore elaborate feather headdresses which either really are, or are intended to simulate, the long tail feathers of the Quétzal bird were worn ceremonially by Mesoamerican priests and rulers.

Quetzal bird, sacred to the Aztecs and Mayas

During mating season, the male grows blue and green twin tail feathers three feet (1 meter) long.

Accompanied by a conch shell, drums, a windpipe and copal incense, the danzantes (dancers) began by paying homage to the six directions—North, South, East, West plus the Sky above and the Underworld below. For each direction, a narrator chanted first in Nahua, language of the Aztecs, then repeated the chant in Spanish.

Each chant invoked the specific character associated with each of the directions and was accompanied by a ritual 'dance' that ended with an upraised offering of copal incense, whose rising smoke evokes the ineffable nature of the spiritual. The effect was mesmerizing.

Mexica (Aztec) Dancers at the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe 2011
(Photo: Reed)

Next the group danced to the Wind. I'm struggling for words to describe it. The dance began slowly, even lyrically, perhaps representing a gentle breeze. As the dance progressed, it gathered strength more typical of a proper wind. But suddenly, the drumbeat quickened noticeably. The dance became more harsh—the danzantes became whirling, swirling dervishes, representing what could only be hurricane winds.

The dance left me breathless...with goose pimples. It is sobering to realize that dance rituals similar to these have been performed on these lands for thousands of years—for two thousand years, at least. Without asking, it's impossible to know what is in the hearts and minds of Mexican people as they watch these dances, whether they view them distantly—as we might watch re-enactments of Revolutionary War battles, for example—or whether they feel some kind of kinship with the dances, or perhaps their experience is a combination of both.

What is undeniable is that the performance received the audience's rapt attention. No one moved. When it was over, the applause began slowly...as if we were all waking from a dream...but then the volume built steadily.

The enthusiasm of the audience suggested that I wasn't alone in my reaction. As I looked around, I was struck by the sheer size of the audience. Chairs for about 500 people filled half the tented area, but an equal number of people were standing at the back and on both sides. There must have been at least 1,000 people there on a Sunday afternoon watching these traditional dances.

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We'd arrived intending to have lunch at one of our favorite restaurants on the plaza. Starving, reluctantly we left, only to return a short time later considerably refreshed...just in time for a performance by a troupe from Guerrero performing 'traditional' dances of their region.

Guerrero Couple Wearing Traditional Dress (Photo: Internet)

I was struck to see that the women wore 'character shoes' with a one-inch heel, like those worn by Spanish dancers. Also like the Spanish, the Guerrero dancers used their shoes to create percussive effects.

The Guerrero dances were highly ritualized, somewhat like medieval European court dances. The music was played on a variety of stringed, guitar-like instruments brought by the Spanish and endlessly modified by Mexico's musicians—yet another reminder of Spain's profound cultural influence.

Many of Mexico's traditional dances (Balet Foklórico) are actually social dances performed by couples. But traditional dances are more than mere reminders of Spanish influence, they are also important examples of the creativity and ingenuity employed by Mexico's original peoples as they tirelessly adapted Spanish customs of dress, musical instruments and dances to reflect their own cultures.

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The next group was arguably the best of all. Women from the local Centro de la Tercera Edad (Center of the Third Age, Senior Citizens!) performed dances from Veracruz State—the long, narrow state that hugs the Gulf of Mexico. Veracruz music is Caribbean in style. Its irrepressible joy at the simple pleasure being alive is contagious.

Elegant 'Senior' Wearing Guerrero Traditional Dress
(Photo: Reed)  

The women obviously enjoyed dancing. What a kick seeing them enthusiastically shakin' it—shoulders and hips—as they performed what are, after all, Caribbean mating dances! Their joy is contagious. They have not forgotten—and neither should we!