Friday, November 11, 2011

Alebrijes: Where the Wild Things Are

Alebrijes are brightly-colored folk sculptures depicting monsters, dragons and other fantastical creatures.

Alebrije: Many-headed Magical Monster in Papier Maché
Although alebrijes are imbued with a primitive quality, they are actually a twentieth-century invention of the papier-maché artist Pedro Linares. Born in 1906 in México City (Distrito Federal), Linares began his career as an artisan specializing in piñatas, carnival masks and 'Judas' figures, which he sold in the markets.

Hallucinatory Vision 

When he was thirty years old, Linares fell ill with a high fever and hallucinations. Accounts of this episode differ in the specifics, but all agree that Pedro Linares's vision of alebrijes was occasioned by his fevered dreams.

One account characterizes the dreams as depicting Lenares's death and rebirth in a mountainous setting inhabited by fierce creatures. While he was in bed, unconscious, Linares dreamed of a strange place resembling a forest with many trees, animals, clouds, sky, and rocks. He felt no pain, and he was very happy as he walked along. 

But suddenly, the rocks, clouds and animals were transformed before his eyes into strange creatures—animals, yes, but wild, unnaturally colored animals. He saw a donkey with butterfly wings, a rooster with bull horns, a lion with an eagle head. The creatures were all shouting a single, nonsensical word: "Alebrijes".

In a raucous chorus, all the monstrous animals cried louder and louder, "Alebrijes! Alebrijes! Alebrijes!" until the sound grew intolerable and Linares could no longer stand it.

Suffering a terrible headache, he ran along a stone road until he found a man walking. Linares asked the man to help him escape.

The man told Linares that he should not be there yet. Then he told Linares to continue walking along the road to the exit, which was just a few meters ahead.

Linares ran until he found himself in front of a narrow window. He passed through the window, then wakened, regaining consciousness.

What might be the Meaning of the 'Nonsense' Word Alebrije?

According to our resident psychoanalyst, seemingly nonsensical words often convey an underlying meaning. Playing with the word alebrije, Reed realized its affinity with the word Alleluia. Even the rhythm is the same:  Al-le-LU-ia...A-le-BRI-je — pronounced ah-lay-BREE-hay.

In Pedro’s fevered dream, the fantastical creatures cry out in a cacophonous ‘Alleluia Chorus’—Alebrijes! Alebrijes! Alebrijes! 

So Reed asked, what might be the meaning of brije? My instantaneous association was to the Spanish word, bruja—witch. Perhaps, then, alebrijes urge us to pay attention to the dark or even the evil side of human existence.

In the account related to me by my Spanish teacher, God appeared to Linares in his dream and told him that if he wanted to regain his health, he must make these creatures. Following his recovery, Linares began fashioning papier-mâché creatures as they had come to him in his dream, thus fulfilling his dream's command.

Alebrijes Incorporate Features from Diverse Cultures

Although these creatures came to Pedro Linares in hallucinatory dreams, his vision did not occur in a vacuum. Parallels can be drawn between alebrijes and various supernatural creatures deriving not only from Mexico’s Mesoamerican and Spanish past, but from Chinese culture as well. (During the 1880s Chinese were imported to build Mexican railroads; Chinese immigration continued through the 1940s and 1950s.)

Fire-Breathing, Horned, Wood-Carved Dragon from Oaxaca
Gotta love the colors! 

Reed's Collection
Before the arrival of the Spanish, a feature of Mesoamerican cultures were brightly colored, fantastic, even macabre images.

Oaxaca god
Another god from Oaxaca—with rodent-like face and ears
From Mexico City’s Chinatown came other images, most notably, dragons. From the Spanish came Gothic images such as the gargoyles on Catholic Churches—grotesque figures designed to convey to illiterate populations vivid messages about evil.

Gargoyle in Casa de las Conchas, Salamanca, Spain
Note the bulging eyes on this winged feline creature
Still another important influence came from the red papier-maché demons called judas, which Linares had made prior to his illness. These demon figures are constructed and burned in Mexico today as part of purification rituals performed during Holy Week. In Pátzcuaro, a ritual 'Burning of Judas' is held at nightfall following 6:00 PM Mass celebrated on Easter Sunday evening.

The Art World Takes Notice

Pedro Linares's fantastical creatures first attracted the attention of a gallery owner in Coyoacán and subsequently the patronage of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. Alebrijes constructed by Don Pedro for Diego Rivera are now in the Diego Rivera Museum Anahuacalli, located not far from us in Coyoacán. Unfortunately, the exhibits are rotating, so the alebrijes of Pedro Lenares are not always on display. We have yet to see them.

In 1988, the Mexican government awarded Pedro Linares the National Arts and Science Award in the Popular and Traditional Arts category, the highest decoration granted to artisans. In 1990, two years after receiving this coveted prize, Pedro Linares, who had become a legend in his own time, died at the age of 86.

Mexican Artisans Take Notice

Consistent with the maxim that imitation is the highest form of compliment, folk artists throughout Mexico began making alebrijes. Artisans in the southern state of Oaxaca—already proficient in carving animals from wood—were the first to begin producing their own alebrijes

In Ocumichu, Michoacán, artisans make alebrijes of clay for sale in Pátzcuaro during Semana Santa Tianguis (Holy Week Open Air Market) and Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead Artisans' Fair). Alebrijes are also exported to private collectors and shops selling Mexican folk art in the United States and Europe.

Fearsome Ocumichu Dragon
Reed's Collection
Little Ocumichu Dragon
Reed's Collection
Three-headed Ocumichu Dragon
Casa de las Artesanías, Morelia, Michoacán

Museum of Popular Arts: Annual Alebrije Parade and Competition 

In Mexico City for Day of the Dead, the Museo de Arte Popular sponsors a competition in which artists create gigantic alebrije monsters of papier maché and install them on flatbed pushcarts.

The competition begins with a parade of alebrijes that proceeds up Reforma Boulevard and ends at the Zócalo, the huge, central plaza in front of the National Palace and the Cathedral, which is where Reed and I encountered these wonderful, fantastical creatures—over a hundred of them!   

Anyone familiar with Maurice Sendak's children's book, 'Where the Wild Things Are,' is certain to cherish alebrijes of all sizes and materials—as will anyone who recognizes the artistic ingenuity and aesthetic sensibility that is an integral part of Mexican culture.

Following is Reed's own Parade of Alebrijes—photos taken the day we visited the Zócalo.  Do you believe the cerulean blue of the sky?  Enjoy!

¡Bienvenido!  
More fantastic than monstrousfish with wings and legs!
Playtime anyone?
Fantastic Grasshopper!
Dragon—Mexico City style!
For originality and colors, this one is my favorite
Note the Cathedral in the background
What a cultural juxtaposition!



Adios!


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