Yesterday we went to a boda (wedding) at Tsentséncuaro. Oh, my word -- it involved the entire pueblo community! Victor, the brother of Alejandra (our Spanish teacher) was a padrino (godfather)- a sponsor supporting the costs of the wedding - so she was going and invited us to come with her.
After the wedding (2 pm), the novios (newlyweds) walked through the streets of the pueblo to a house of one of the padrinos, where we sat down and enjoyed hot chocolate y pan (bread). Then we walked up to the house of the novio (groom), where there was comida (dinner) and hours later cena (supper).Where was the fiesta at this modest house? Oh, it was easy -- they just closed the stone-paved street and set up tables in front of the house.
There must have been settings for 300! We enjoyed pollo (chicken) with mole y arroz (rice) while we waited for the novios to appear -- hours later!
It's not clear to me exactly what they were doing. When I asked Alejandra, she smilingly replied, "They are starting the miel de la luna (honeymoon)." Consummating the marriage? Maybe...anyway, they then walked through the streets of the pueblo accompanied by an all-female banda and by loud, dancing revelers taunting the groom.
When the procession arrived at the house of the novio's parents, I must say, the groom appeared far more relaxed than he had been either at the church or at the house of the padrinos, so who knows what had happened! 
The newlyweds sat on a kind of double throne to receive gifts from their guests, who danced up a long aisle before presenting their gifts to the novios. Reed and Alejandra's seven-year old little brother, Antonio, danced up the aisle and presented Ale's gift to 
the novios. For those who've never seen Reed dance, let me put it this way: American Blacks have told him, "You're the only white man we know who dances like a black man!" Needless to say, they got a hearty round of applause. It was a riot!
Then there was a traditional dance where the newlyweds sit in the ubiquitous plastic chairs and are lifted -- women lift the novio; men lift the novia (bride) – with high hilarity! Then they served cena (supper) -- this time a kind of pot roast with rice, chicken wings and more rice. This meal set the stage for much dancing and just plain merriment -- plus cerveza y tequila. The Mexicans certainly know how to party!
The only sanitorio (restroom) was down a set of very steep, very rough stairs -- not for me. After 5 hours, I met our Monarca taxi to go back to our house to use the facilities and feed the cats. When I got back, the Baile de los Regalos (Dance of the Gifts) was underway, so I stood for awhile and just watched. I didn't see Reed and Antonio in line, but at one point I caught the groom's eye and (rather formally) dipped my head in greeting and respect. He responded in kind, and we shared a smile. Priceless.
the novios. For those who've never seen Reed dance, let me put it this way: American Blacks have told him, "You're the only white man we know who dances like a black man!" Needless to say, they got a hearty round of applause. It was a riot!
Then there was a traditional dance where the newlyweds sit in the ubiquitous plastic chairs and are lifted -- women lift the novio; men lift the novia (bride) – with high hilarity! Then they served cena (supper) -- this time a kind of pot roast with rice, chicken wings and more rice. This meal set the stage for much dancing and just plain merriment -- plus cerveza y tequila. The Mexicans certainly know how to party!The only sanitorio (restroom) was down a set of very steep, very rough stairs -- not for me. After 5 hours, I met our Monarca taxi to go back to our house to use the facilities and feed the cats. When I got back, the Baile de los Regalos (Dance of the Gifts) was underway, so I stood for awhile and just watched. I didn't see Reed and Antonio in line, but at one point I caught the groom's eye and (rather formally) dipped my head in greeting and respect. He responded in kind, and we shared a smile. Priceless.
The celebration continued with a dance by the older women carrying full pla
tters of cooked chicken with mole and rice, clearly, a tradition that the women enjoyed continuing.
My Spanish combined with Reed's dancing and photo-taking appear to be 'magical' for opening doors. I had an absolutely delightful chat with a nurse and primary teacher from Morelia (friends of friends of the bride); when they left, the nurse gave me her phone number so we can meet when we're in Morelia -- priceless! Reed enjoyed dancing with a woman from the pueblo; when we were about to leave, she asked Alejandra if she could invite us to her house: "Of course," she replied! Priceless! At the end, the announcer greeted everyone -- from the pueblo, the Purépecha community and "our friends from the United States." Once again, priceless!
Were off today to Ucazanástacua for comida at the house of Jorge Cira, who runs the ecology program at CELEP, our Spanish school. We engage in English conversation at our house with his young-adult sons, Jorge and Hugo. Comida is to be followed by a basketball game to be followed by another dance and fireworks! Tomorrow we go back to Ucas for a jaripeo (Brahma bull riding), a tradition introduced by the Spaniards when they brought bulls to Mexico.
It continues to impress me how many roads there are by which to enter Mexican life and culture. We're thoroughly enjoying the process of discovering our "vía."
tters of cooked chicken with mole and rice, clearly, a tradition that the women enjoyed continuing.My Spanish combined with Reed's dancing and photo-taking appear to be 'magical' for opening doors. I had an absolutely delightful chat with a nurse and primary teacher from Morelia (friends of friends of the bride); when they left, the nurse gave me her phone number so we can meet when we're in Morelia -- priceless! Reed enjoyed dancing with a woman from the pueblo; when we were about to leave, she asked Alejandra if she could invite us to her house: "Of course," she replied! Priceless! At the end, the announcer greeted everyone -- from the pueblo, the Purépecha community and "our friends from the United States." Once again, priceless!
Were off today to Ucazanástacua for comida at the house of Jorge Cira, who runs the ecology program at CELEP, our Spanish school. We engage in English conversation at our house with his young-adult sons, Jorge and Hugo. Comida is to be followed by a basketball game to be followed by another dance and fireworks! Tomorrow we go back to Ucas for a jaripeo (Brahma bull riding), a tradition introduced by the Spaniards when they brought bulls to Mexico.
It continues to impress me how many roads there are by which to enter Mexican life and culture. We're thoroughly enjoying the process of discovering our "vía."
Wow! It must have been a ravishing experience for you. I once got to attend a Scottish wedding and it was beautiful. It was in a very beautiful venue NYC and was a very unique experience for me. They have different traditions and ways of getting married.
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